METALS, GLASS, PLASTICS
to polish metals; how to remove scratches from glass (including windscreens
and shop counters)
remover for plastics (including soft plastics such as acrylic and plastic
the bottom of this page is a list of related articles
scratches in glass and plastics
jewellers rouge to polish gold
and specialist polishes
cloths and Polishing
mops and polishing sticks
and cleaning fluids
cleaners, domestic or Ultrasonic
is how scratches are removed in a windscreen factory. Use a polishing
motor on its slowest speed. Use a large cotton mop. While the mop
is spinning apply by holding the block of rouge
against it. The rouge is very soft, it will come off easily, there is
no need to mix it with anything. If the scratch is deep enough to feel
with your fingernail it is too deep to remove by polishing. I assume
that if this method works on glass car windscreens it will also work
on ordinary windows and on shop counters and on glass watch 'crystals'
(it won't have any effect at all on sapphire 'crystals').
I tried to remove a myriad of fine scratches from a car mirror without
a polishing motor. After 6 or 7mns of very hard rubbing with a soft
cloth (having heavily smeared it with rouge) I came to the conclusion
that it wasn't making the slightest difference and I gave up. That
is not to say it might not have worked if I had kept rubbing for several
but I don't have the patience
and the mirror
acrylics and other very soft plastics try scratch
remover. This works well on soft plastics such as acrylics.
Typical items made of soft plastics are: many 'watch crystals', most
display stands, simple handheld magnifying lenses, some very cheap reading
spectacles and sunglasses. Scratch remover will not work on hard plastics
such as polycarbonate (or any lens described as 'scratch-resistant').
are many hundreds of different types of plastic, if you don't know if
your plastic is 'soft' or 'hard', try it and see. If the plastic is
too hard, the scratch remover will have no effect. If the plastic is
very soft, it will probably work. But do take care. Do not risk damaging
expensive items, especially lenses. The basic rule is: if you have a
choice between throwing the item away or trying to remove the scratches,
then try the scratch remover, you've nothing to lose, otherwise don't
risk it, especially with lenses (you could remove coatings).
use, mix scratch
remover with water to form a paste the consistency of double cream,
apply with a small felt mop on a miniature polishing motor, go carefully
- you are only polishing a scratch not drilling for oil. This is the
powder used in the aircraft industry for polishing the acrylic canopies
of aircraft. As with the rouge, it will only work on fine scratches.
cleaning jewellery (gold and silver) IN A WORKSHOP:
- use a soft cotton mop on a polishing motor (e.g. 6 inch mop), as it's
spinning press the stick of rouge
against it until the mop turns red, then press the jewellery against
the mop. Any crevices, especially the backs of stones, will become dark
red from the rouge. This is normal. Wash out in an
ultra sonic cleaner and dry by throwing it into a big bowl of hot
sawdust (e.g. an enamel bowl full of sawdust on a gas or electric heating
For cleaning jewellery (gold and silver) IN THE HOME:
- smear the rouge (rouge
block or rouge
powder or rouge
liquid) onto a cotton cloth, then polish using a gold
polishing cloth. For the inside of
a ring use several strands of linen thread, tie one end to an immovable
object, smear with rouge, slide the strands inside the ring,
pull taught, rub the ring up and down. Any crevices, especially the
backs of stones, will become dark red from the rouge. This is normal.
Wash the item in hot soapy water, cleaning the backs of the stones with
a soft toothbrush (or use an ultrasonic
cleaner suitable for home use), then leave to dry on tissue, give
it final shine with a gold
cleaning jewellery (any soft metal...not steel or chrome), ALTERNATIVE
- use polishing
sticks, starting with a coarse grade to remove bad scratches (you
should do this anyway, before you start polishing with a polishing compound),
then work your way through the grades to the finest, then vigorous rub
with a gold
polishing cloth. This is good for flat items (since the polishing
sticks won't get into fine spaces); this good as a 'quick-fix' for removing
the stains caused by testing acids (you are not aiming to polish the
item 'as new', merely to remove a stain); polishing sticks will not
give the brilliant jewellers-rouge shine.
remove tarnish (blackening) from silver there is a special chemical,
and we have a silver
cleaning cloth that is impregnated with this chemical.
also sell a selection of 'professional polishing compounds. I call them
'professional' for two reasons.
they are extensively used in workshops ('polishing shops')
in the jewellery trade.
by saying they are for 'professional' use I assume the user has a polishing
motor and a selection of polishing mops and has experience of polishing
(or maybe wants a wider choice of polishes); or wants to try these out
to see if they are better than what he uses already. My point is - do
not telephone or email to ask, "How do I use polishes?" (that
would be like buying set of spanners from Halfords then telephoning
them to ask how you repair a car), these polishes are strictly for professionals
who know how to polish metal.
are water-based and are therefore 'clean' unlike jewellers rouge which
stains everything red and has to be continuously washed off.
the sake of comparing the grades, jewellers rouge is somewhere between
the 'red' and 'blue' grades below.
£5.00 per block. ref.luxi-gr
Extra coarse grade for badly scratched hard metals (including steel)
but not for soft metals (including gold, silver and copper). It is also
good for polishing badly scratched platinum a notoriously difficult
metal to work with. But don't use this for general work, this is for
rough castings and badly corroded antiques.
A coarse grade scratch-remover for 'hard' metals such as copper alloys
of brass and bronze. Also good for the final polish on platinum.
£5.50 ref. luxi-blu
Medium grade, will remove scratches on gold and silver and is good for
the final polish on harder metals; will also remove fine scratches in
glass (a clean alternative to rouge).
Similar to rouge, for the final polish on gold and silver. Should also
remove very fine scuffs (though not scratches) in glass. If you have
jewellery that really is perfectly clean and shiny, but just hasn't
got that 'as new' look, then use this one.
£9.50 ref. asian-red
An economical 'general purpose' polish, exported to workshops in Asian
where speed is more important than perfection (it's not usually for
sale in the UK). Good for the busy antiques dealer who wants just wants
to make the items 'saleable' and isn't aiming to make them 'like new'…and
who really doesn't want to spend money on all the different grades.
If you want
a 'general' polish without having to bother with any of the other grades,
go for this one.
to polish jewellery
to remove tarnish from silver without using polish
(types) of jewellers pliers and cutters
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