POLISHING
WITH ROUGE ETC
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This is how scratches are removed in a windscreen
factory. Use a polishing motor on its slowest speed. Use a large
cotton mop. While the mop is spinning apply by holding the BLOCK
OF ROUGE against it. The rouge is very soft, it will come
off easily, there is no need to mix it with anything. If the scratch
is deep enough to feel with your fingernail it is too deep to
remove by polishing. I assume that if this method works on car
windscreens it also works on ordinary windows and on shop counters
and on glass watch 'crystals' (it won't have any effect
at all on sapphire 'crystals').
I tried to remove a myriad of fine scratches
from a car mirror without a polishing motor. After 6 or
7mns of very hard rubbing with a soft cloth (having heavily smeared
it with rouge) I came to the conclusion that it wasn't making
the slightest difference and I gave up. That is not to say it
might not have worked if I had kept rubbing for several minutes
more
but I don't have the patience
and the mirror remains
scratched.
There are other uses for rouge. It is the compound
used in makeup for making the face red. It can be mixed with isinglass
and applied to the
insides of iron rings (piston rings) in the engines of old cars
to take up the imperfections of the ring (though this method is
not used in modern cars). Any more suggestions welcome,
email me.
For clear plastics such as acrylics (including
'watch crystals'') use the other compound, the one I call SCRATCH
REMOVER. Mix it with water to form a paste the consistency
of double cream, apply with a small felt mop on a miniature polishing
motor, go carefully - you are only polishing a scratch
not drilling for oil. This is the powder used in the aircraft
industry for polishing the acrylic canopies of aircraft. As with
the rouge, it will only work on fine scratches.
The same applies to spectacles lenses (check
carefully to see if they are made of glass or plastic). If you
have a choice between throwing them away or trying to remove
the scratches, then give it a go, but never polish lenses that
cost hundreds of pounds (e.g. on cameras, binoculars, telescopes
and expensive spectacles). Firstly, you risk polishing
vigorously until all scratches are removed, but you have also
changed the shape of the lens or polished 'flats' into it (which
would make it unusable and worthless); secondly, most modern lenses
are coated and you will remove the coatings.
For cleaning jewellery (gold and silver) IN A
WORKSHOP:
- use a soft cotton mop on a polishing motor (e.g. 6 inch mop),
as it's spinning press the stick of rouge against it until the
mop turns red, then press the jewellery against the mop. For the
insides of ring use a cone instead of a mop. Any
crevices, especially the backs of stones, will become dark red
from the rouge. This is normal. Wash
out in an ultra sonic cleaner and dry by throwing it into a big
bowl of hot sawdust (e.g. an enamel bowl full of sawdust on a
gas or electric heating ring).
For cleaning jewellery (gold and silver)
IN THE HOME:
- use a soft cloth, smear on the rouge (using either the ROUGE
BLOCK or ROUGE POWDER), then
polish using a cotton polishing cloth or, better still, POLISHING
MITTENS. For the inside of a ring
use several strands of linen thread,
tie one end to an immovable object, smear with rouge, slide the
strands inside the ring, pull taught, rub the ring up and
down. Any crevices, especially the backs of stones, will become
dark red from the rouge. This is normal. Wash the item in hot
soapy water, cleaning the backs of the stones with a soft toothbrush,
then leave to dry on tissue, give it final shine with a
GOLD POLISHING CLOTH.
To remove tarnish (blackening) from silver there
is a special chemical, and we have a SILVER
CLEANING CLOTH that is impregnated with this chemical.
If you have any other tips about polishing scratches,
email me.