How I Describe the Condition of Binoculars and Telescopes (the standard 'Raffi method') UNDERSTANDING RAFFI'S OPTICS LIST For Secondhand (including ex-wartime and antique) binoculars, telescopes, microscopes etc click here For new optics (binoculars, telescopes, accessories) click here The Basics The power (magnification) and physical size of each item e.g. 10X50. The first figure is the magnification, the second figure is the diameter of the big lens (objective lens) in millimeters. So 10X50 would mean 10X magnification (objects will appear 10X bigger, as if you have moved 10X closer) with 50mm diameter objective lens. The field of view is the area you can see left-to-right / top-to-bottom whilst holding the binocular steady. Low power binoculars have a wide field of view, high power binoculars have a narrow field of view, irrespective of the size of the objective lenses. The field of view can be given in degrees (eg "Field of View 8.5 ") or in feet and yards (eg "262 feet at 1000 yards"). The Size Look carefully at the scale at the bottom of each photograph, usually a 'rule' with black and white squares, each square being one inch. This is how I describe the external condition I don't list the external condition where there is a good photograph (because you can see it) but I always tell you about any damage that is more than just cosmetic AS NEW If you put it back on the shelf in a shop, no customer would ever question it - it is new! But I say, "As New" because I bought it from an individual not a wholesaler or manufacturer; technically it is secondhand - it means that if you don't like it you must return it within 4 days, not the 14 days you get with new goods; it means that there is no VAT for you to pay (a special scheme); it means that you won't be able to return it to the manufacturer if it develops a fault (although there are exceptions) - technically it is secondhand. ALMOST AS NEW Although it is, really, like new - if you were to look closely through a magnifier you could say, quite rightly, that it had some minor scuff marks as if it has been on display; or that the outer box is tatty and / or the instructions are missing and / or the case shows signs of use and / or the strap has been taken out of its wrapping. GOOD Obviously not new but the amount of wear is minimal, fabric / leather covering is in good condition, surface paint is at least 90% intact, appearance quite respectable. FAIR Leather / fabric covering scuffed and scratched but mostly intact, surface paint is coming off. This is typical 'secondhand' condition, most items are in this condition, many say, "Excellent condition considering the age". I say, "Fair" TATTY Leather / fabric covering torn or peeling, surface paint has largely come off, maybe also small dents, worn eyecups, wobbly knobs. Many say, "in perfect working order" but I say "tatty"...even if it IS in perfect working order. This is how I describe the condition of the optics CLEAN: No dust inside, no haze, no scratches, scuffs, chips, crazing, or signs of damp or mold. HAZE is a very fine, and often imperceptible, layer dust on the prisms, as you might see in window glass when the sun catches it at the right angle. Never visible in use but can lessen performance if bad. SLIGHT HAZE: a perfectionist might give this a Clean & Overhaul, most wouldn't bother HAZE: will lessen performance, would benefit from Clean & Overhaul. DUST. Most old binoculars contain some dust, even if only a couple of tiny specs. Some enthusiast-perfectionists tell me that even brand new binoculars have some microscopic signs of dust (though a good make shouldn't have any!). I use the same term ("dust") when it's not really dust but fine white marks, possibly left over from cleaning or from damp that has dried out (not to be confused with damp or mould which is given a special mention). VERY SLIGHT DUST: just a few specs, often in the form of very small black 'pinpricks.' SLIGHT DUST: a perfectionist might give this a Clean & Overhaul, most wouldn't bother DUSTY: rarely visible in use but will lessen performance, would benefit from Clean & Overhaul. GRUBBY: thick dust, grime, bits of dead insect etc, badly in need of a Clean & Overhaul. ALIGNMENT The prisms inside can move so that each half of the binocular is pointing in a slightly different direction. Nearly all old binoculars are out of alignment to some degree, though you would have to put it on a collimator to notice. Most people don't notice (the eyes compensate) and I don't mention it. If it's bad enough to give a double image (for a second or two until your eyes compensate) I say: OUT OF ALIGNMENT If it's so bad that the binocular is unusable I say BADLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT.